Showing posts with label the. Show all posts
Showing posts with label the. Show all posts
Tuesday, February 24, 2015
Detail The best workbench plans
Learn The best workbench plans
Pic Example The best workbench plans
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Tuesday, February 17, 2015
More Shed plans there is an increase in the cost of materials for producing bicycles
Topic Shed plans there is an increase in the cost of materials for producing bicycles
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Saturday, February 14, 2015
Wood working projects for the beginner
Wood working projects for the beginner
Woodworking - wikipedia, the free encyclopedia, Woodworking is the activity or skill of making items from wood, and includes wood carving, joinery, and carpentry. contents 1 history 2 materials 3 notable. How to find free woodworking plans & other project, Whether your looking for a weekend woodworking project, building furniture, making crafts or just trying out the new tools you got for christmas, there are. Ana white | let's build something!, Free plans to help anyone build simple, stylish furniture at large discounts from retail furniture. all woodworking plans are step by step, and include table plans. Woodworking bench | ebay - electronics, cars, fashion, Find great deals on ebay for woodworking bench woodworking workbench. shop with confidence.. Go wood, Christmas is a great time to feel sentimental. i'd just like to thank all you folks who've been kind enough to read go wood, and even more so to those of you who've. Woodworking power tools | ebay, Find great deals on ebay for woodworking power tools woodworking machinery. shop with confidence..
Fine woodworking - videos, project plans, how-to articles, Created by woodworkers for woodworkers. practical information about techniques, tools and materials for the professional cabinetmaker or those just starting out.. Woodworking plans & tools | fine woodworking project, Who is woodcraft? since 1928, woodworkers have trusted woodcraft to deliver quality woodworking tools, supplies and service. with more than 20,000 tools and supplies. Woodworking tools supplies hardware plans finishing, Shop for woodworking tools, plans, finishing and hardware online at rockler woodworking and hardware. find thousands of woodworking supplies like drawer slides.
Woodworking bench | ebay - electronics, cars, fashion, Find great deals on ebay for woodworking bench woodworking workbench. shop with confidence.. Go wood, Christmas is a great time to feel sentimental. i'd just like to thank all you folks who've been kind enough to read go wood, and even more so to those of you who've. Woodworking power tools | ebay, Find great deals on ebay for woodworking power tools woodworking machinery. shop with confidence..
Woodworking - wikipedia, the free encyclopedia, Woodworking is the activity or skill of making items from wood, and includes wood carving, joinery, and carpentry. contents 1 history 2 materials 3 notable. How to find free woodworking plans & other project, Whether your looking for a weekend woodworking project, building furniture, making crafts or just trying out the new tools you got for christmas, there are. Ana white | let's build something!, Free plans to help anyone build simple, stylish furniture at large discounts from retail furniture. all woodworking plans are step by step, and include table plans. Woodworking bench | ebay - electronics, cars, fashion, Find great deals on ebay for woodworking bench woodworking workbench. shop with confidence.. Go wood, Christmas is a great time to feel sentimental. i'd just like to thank all you folks who've been kind enough to read go wood, and even more so to those of you who've. Woodworking power tools | ebay, Find great deals on ebay for woodworking power tools woodworking machinery. shop with confidence..Wednesday, March 5, 2014
salvaging the remnants of ancient forests
in her blog entry last xmas, which is generally hilarious, shannon wrote that "to teach sculpture is to participate in turning valuable materials into waste; sculpture is itself a somewhat environmentally unethical pursuit."
indeed. it is generally unethical to produce non-functional objects from virgin material, especially when its student work that will likely be discarded or neglected after critique.
but we are not locked in to the cycle of rampant consumption, and as artists (free-thinkers and creatives) we should have the ability, desire, and conscience to adapt ourselves and our ideas to the materials available from salvage and secondhand sources.
thankfully, these wonderful people are here to help us:
http://www.ohmegasalvage.com/Showroom%20Pages/salvage_list.htm
http://www.driftwoodsalvage.com/
http://sfbay.craigslist.org/
http://cache.consumerist.com/assets/resources/2007/06/Freegans%20All%20About.jpg
http://images.google.com/imgres?imgurl=http://pixhost.ws/avaxhome/7e/bd/0009bd7e_medium.jpeg&imgrefurl=http://www.ebookee.com/Art-and-Science-of-Dumpster-Diving_190826.html&usg=__gT0xEyxcGXZQRjVH31H4X6YapEM=&h=300&w=229&sz=33&hl=en&start=55&sig2=GZN0KezP_H_LBboGzyDW0g&tbnid=jwoTfjmj4Z9FSM:&tbnh=116&tbnw=89&ei=H1saStDAKpu8swOq2NTaCA&prev=/images%3Fq%3Ddumpster%2Bscuba%26hl%3Den%26safe%3Doff%26client%3Dsafari%26rls%3Den%26sa%3DN%26start%3D40%26um%3D1&um=1
merry gleaning!
Read More..
indeed. it is generally unethical to produce non-functional objects from virgin material, especially when its student work that will likely be discarded or neglected after critique.
but we are not locked in to the cycle of rampant consumption, and as artists (free-thinkers and creatives) we should have the ability, desire, and conscience to adapt ourselves and our ideas to the materials available from salvage and secondhand sources.
thankfully, these wonderful people are here to help us:
http://www.ohmegasalvage.com/Showroom%20Pages/salvage_list.htm
http://www.driftwoodsalvage.com/
http://sfbay.craigslist.org/
http://cache.consumerist.com/assets/resources/2007/06/Freegans%20All%20About.jpg
http://images.google.com/imgres?imgurl=http://pixhost.ws/avaxhome/7e/bd/0009bd7e_medium.jpeg&imgrefurl=http://www.ebookee.com/Art-and-Science-of-Dumpster-Diving_190826.html&usg=__gT0xEyxcGXZQRjVH31H4X6YapEM=&h=300&w=229&sz=33&hl=en&start=55&sig2=GZN0KezP_H_LBboGzyDW0g&tbnid=jwoTfjmj4Z9FSM:&tbnh=116&tbnw=89&ei=H1saStDAKpu8swOq2NTaCA&prev=/images%3Fq%3Ddumpster%2Bscuba%26hl%3Den%26safe%3Doff%26client%3Dsafari%26rls%3Den%26sa%3DN%26start%3D40%26um%3D1&um=1
merry gleaning!
Sunday, February 23, 2014
DREAMING OF THE SEASIDE blue console table
Im certainly in the mood for a vacation it seems.
Dreaming of the blue ocean waters, the sound of the shore birds, and my favorite sea shells.
So instead of packing our bags Im painting and decorating in the seaside cottage theme.
This table and clock shown below were both painted in custom mixed blues
over a chippy white finish. The base color is ASCP Provence with whites and browns added.
To achieve a similar look:
you need a good thick white paint layer base (dry)
then chip large areas of the white off with a metal tool creating potholes in the finish
metal chips paint well
Once you have a horrible looking cow patchwork of missing white paint
cover that with your blue color and once dry sand back the areas you chipped the white away
this will highlight the potholes and show the surrounding edge in a halo of white
giving you a pretty time warn, beach weathered feel.
The table is just deep enough to use as a laptop desk or
placed in your front entry to make an overwhelming statement everytime you walk in.
Georges Etsy Shop
Sharing with:
Tuesday, February 18, 2014
Starting the Moxon Twin Screw Vise
There is a lot of work and joy in setting up a shop, finding some of my old power tool buddies has been interesting. But the big accomplishment is always in setting up the workbench and making decisions on the peg board. Well the big part is done and peg board is hung over the main workbench complete with hooks and tools. I may find myself modifying the layout some in the future, but probably not a whole lot.
Infact it felt so good to have the main part of the shop set up that yesterday instead of working on organizing any more of the shop. I started making sawdust instead. OK so Im not so good at this whole delayed gratification thing and besides the tools on the board were crying out to be put to use. Who am I to deny them.
Since one of the first things I had set up was the new lathe. I decided it was time to take it for a test drive and shape some of the remaining hickory I have from building the joinery bench to make a free standing double screw vise a la Moxon and Chris Schwarz. I took one of my hickory scraps, about 27" long 3" wide and 1 1/2" thick and crosscut it in half to two 13 1/2" sections. I measured out about 4" for the grip and then a 1 1/2" section down the center of the blank using the bandsaw.
I then marked out the centers and mounted the blank on the lathe.
Using a pair of calipers measured to 1 1/2" I turned the screw end of the blank down to a round, Why a 1 12" round, well I have two threading tools one is 3/4" diameter and one is 1 1/2" diameter. I actually bought them together off eBay but intentionally bought the pair for the 1 1/2" for this specific project.
I should explain that as far a lathe tools go I dont own a parting tool.So instead I used my roughing gouge to bring the blank down close to round by making a series of grooves of equal depths and then evening out the territory between the grooves. I used a roughing gouge and a skew cutter to bring the blank down to just a hair smaller than 1 1/2"
Maybe I will be more specific about the turning on the next blog post, I didnt take enough pictures to really explain this part as in depth as I should have. Look for more info on this soon.
You make the dowel you are going to turn just a little smaller than the diameter so there is some room for things to move. We are doing a tap and dye with wood and not steel. I have worked the tap with tight tolerances with the 3/4 inch tap and dye and the result is real work to turn and it makes this wonderful, high pitched banshee screech with every turn. If youre going to do this under size the screw blank by a little, not too much, just a little. What this really means is that if you want to turn some threads and you buy sized dowel for it instead of turning your own, then you should still spend a little time with some sand paper bringing the diameter down by a little, youll be happy you did.
With the blank turned, it was time to cut the threads. I opened the thread box and checked the depth of the cutter, You want to start with a shallow cut first and make it deeper with a second pass if needed. Then you place the thread box over the blank and start turning. (I laugh now that I look at the picture I took, "Why yes that is a big ass bag of sunflower seeds, I prefer to call them Shop Fuel.")
The only real trick it to start the cutter off slow and regular to you keep your threads square. With a sharp blade you dont need to add a significant amount of downwards force, the truth is once you have it started all you have to do is keep spinning it, The follow up threads will apply all the downwards force you need. (Apparently the sunflower seeds were relocated before this shot)
I wanted to test the quality of the threads before I went too much further so I cut a small section of red oak and drilled a hole in it with a forstner bit and 1 3/8". Its important to under size the hole you are going to cut with the tap as well. 1 1/2" will be the outside diameter of the threads, and you want to drill the hole for the diameter of the valleys between the threads. a 1 1/2" thread cutter will fall through a 1 1/2" hole without making a cut.
One other thing I think I should explain, the liquid or darker areas you can see on the wood being cut comes from "lubing" up the wood with a little 3 in 1 oil. Im sure any type of light oil will work, maybe even a wax, but it is recommended to help ease the cut.
So then I turned to wooden "nut" onto the wooden "bolt" and the threads worked just fine. NO deeper cutting needed.
Before I quit the shop for the night I took some of the scraps from doing the initial cuts on the band saw and glued them to the handle end. Now I can shape the handle down into something round and more manageable. I should get to play with that some today.
But first I get to go to one of my favorite places in the world, about 30 minutes from my house is a smaller, mom and pop type lumber company that is excellent to deal with. Their name is Big River Lumber Company and they specialize in hardwoods. The customer service there is outstanding. I have dealt with lumber companies and driers before and they have only wanted to sell larger lots of wood, minimum orders of 100 or 250 board feet, and I dont have that kind of need or wallet. Im a small one man production here. Big River has had no problem selling me one board of wood, they even brought me into the production area so I could pick it myself. I have never had that type of helpful response from other companies, (of course those were all out in Northern Maine and there were lots of other hurdles I faced when we lived there as well.) anyhow Im headed out there to hopefully pick up some white oak. Buying wood is almost as good as buying new tools.
Cheers
Oldwolf
Read More..
I then marked out the centers and mounted the blank on the lathe.
Using a pair of calipers measured to 1 1/2" I turned the screw end of the blank down to a round, Why a 1 12" round, well I have two threading tools one is 3/4" diameter and one is 1 1/2" diameter. I actually bought them together off eBay but intentionally bought the pair for the 1 1/2" for this specific project.
I should explain that as far a lathe tools go I dont own a parting tool.So instead I used my roughing gouge to bring the blank down close to round by making a series of grooves of equal depths and then evening out the territory between the grooves. I used a roughing gouge and a skew cutter to bring the blank down to just a hair smaller than 1 1/2"
Maybe I will be more specific about the turning on the next blog post, I didnt take enough pictures to really explain this part as in depth as I should have. Look for more info on this soon.
You make the dowel you are going to turn just a little smaller than the diameter so there is some room for things to move. We are doing a tap and dye with wood and not steel. I have worked the tap with tight tolerances with the 3/4 inch tap and dye and the result is real work to turn and it makes this wonderful, high pitched banshee screech with every turn. If youre going to do this under size the screw blank by a little, not too much, just a little. What this really means is that if you want to turn some threads and you buy sized dowel for it instead of turning your own, then you should still spend a little time with some sand paper bringing the diameter down by a little, youll be happy you did.
With the blank turned, it was time to cut the threads. I opened the thread box and checked the depth of the cutter, You want to start with a shallow cut first and make it deeper with a second pass if needed. Then you place the thread box over the blank and start turning. (I laugh now that I look at the picture I took, "Why yes that is a big ass bag of sunflower seeds, I prefer to call them Shop Fuel.")
The only real trick it to start the cutter off slow and regular to you keep your threads square. With a sharp blade you dont need to add a significant amount of downwards force, the truth is once you have it started all you have to do is keep spinning it, The follow up threads will apply all the downwards force you need. (Apparently the sunflower seeds were relocated before this shot)
I wanted to test the quality of the threads before I went too much further so I cut a small section of red oak and drilled a hole in it with a forstner bit and 1 3/8". Its important to under size the hole you are going to cut with the tap as well. 1 1/2" will be the outside diameter of the threads, and you want to drill the hole for the diameter of the valleys between the threads. a 1 1/2" thread cutter will fall through a 1 1/2" hole without making a cut.
One other thing I think I should explain, the liquid or darker areas you can see on the wood being cut comes from "lubing" up the wood with a little 3 in 1 oil. Im sure any type of light oil will work, maybe even a wax, but it is recommended to help ease the cut.
So then I turned to wooden "nut" onto the wooden "bolt" and the threads worked just fine. NO deeper cutting needed.
Before I quit the shop for the night I took some of the scraps from doing the initial cuts on the band saw and glued them to the handle end. Now I can shape the handle down into something round and more manageable. I should get to play with that some today.
But first I get to go to one of my favorite places in the world, about 30 minutes from my house is a smaller, mom and pop type lumber company that is excellent to deal with. Their name is Big River Lumber Company and they specialize in hardwoods. The customer service there is outstanding. I have dealt with lumber companies and driers before and they have only wanted to sell larger lots of wood, minimum orders of 100 or 250 board feet, and I dont have that kind of need or wallet. Im a small one man production here. Big River has had no problem selling me one board of wood, they even brought me into the production area so I could pick it myself. I have never had that type of helpful response from other companies, (of course those were all out in Northern Maine and there were lots of other hurdles I faced when we lived there as well.) anyhow Im headed out there to hopefully pick up some white oak. Buying wood is almost as good as buying new tools.
Cheers
Oldwolf
Thursday, February 13, 2014
Petersburg Mi Problems with the mantle
On my previous post about the mantle being twisted, I have a question from a visitor, and I want to address it in a post, because of the way blogger is (you cant always follow comments and replies easily) -
Superdave0002 asks: "Do you think it will stay once you get it untwisted?"
Well, theres no easy answer to this. The best I can say is, I hope so! I mean this:
I know I can untwist it. The problem is the area of the country we live in. In lower Michigan, it can go from 35 degrees in the morning to 85 degrees in the afternoon, like it is now. Thats a drastic change on the moisture content of wood. To make matters worse, the dead of winter around here is even more harsh, and we have a VERY dry climate in January, with humidity levels dropping to single digits. Wood typically likes to be around 8-10% moisture content in our region. Its possible that I can straighten out this mantle, hang it, and next year it could twist a little! The only options are to try, or buy another piece (which is not in the budget, nor easy to find quickly).
My saving grace in this situation is my method of hanging it. Im going to employ a French Cleat (google it up for a reference). If it re-twists and I have to replace it, I will be able to do so without too much trouble.
I hope so!
Thanks for the question - I appreciate everyone that watches my blog!
Read More..
Superdave0002 asks: "Do you think it will stay once you get it untwisted?"
Well, theres no easy answer to this. The best I can say is, I hope so! I mean this:
I know I can untwist it. The problem is the area of the country we live in. In lower Michigan, it can go from 35 degrees in the morning to 85 degrees in the afternoon, like it is now. Thats a drastic change on the moisture content of wood. To make matters worse, the dead of winter around here is even more harsh, and we have a VERY dry climate in January, with humidity levels dropping to single digits. Wood typically likes to be around 8-10% moisture content in our region. Its possible that I can straighten out this mantle, hang it, and next year it could twist a little! The only options are to try, or buy another piece (which is not in the budget, nor easy to find quickly).
My saving grace in this situation is my method of hanging it. Im going to employ a French Cleat (google it up for a reference). If it re-twists and I have to replace it, I will be able to do so without too much trouble.
I hope so!
Thanks for the question - I appreciate everyone that watches my blog!
Monday, February 10, 2014
Finishing the header and trim
Ive finished the buildout on the side wall, and installed colonial trim. This completes this section of header. After all is done, then the painting can be completed, and new crown installed. There is another header to be built - pictures coming soon...
Read More..
Progress on the Claro Walnut Slab Table
9/19 ... Update on the table progress ... The chairs left Friday morning and will return mid week...
And we assembled the table as we went out the door Friday afternoon ...
9/16
Were making progress on the big Claro walnut slab table I described in the two most recent posts below. We should have it upright on the base tomorrow and ready for the finish next week. It looks like it will be a beautiful piece ... The slab has some pretty interesting and incredible color and grain variations and we like the new base design that the customers encouraged us to create ... It is going to be a heavy one though ... Hope they have a good floor system ... Click the pictures to enlarge them ...
The top is butterflied and scraped relatively smooth. Well assemble the base and complete work on the bottom of the table and hopefully have it upright for the weekend ...
The chairs will be leaving in the morning to get their Danish cord seats at Sandy Sherman Chair Caning in Brookline, Vermont ... Its our first effort with the Danish cord and Im looking forward to seeing how it works how ...
We started the day with a couple hours of drilling and tapping ...
and a test assembly before we finish sanding and varnishing on the bottom tomorrow... all for now ...
Read More..
And we assembled the table as we went out the door Friday afternoon ...9/16Were making progress on the big Claro walnut slab table I described in the two most recent posts below. We should have it upright on the base tomorrow and ready for the finish next week. It looks like it will be a beautiful piece ... The slab has some pretty interesting and incredible color and grain variations and we like the new base design that the customers encouraged us to create ... It is going to be a heavy one though ... Hope they have a good floor system ... Click the pictures to enlarge them ...The top is butterflied and scraped relatively smooth. Well assemble the base and complete work on the bottom of the table and hopefully have it upright for the weekend ...The chairs will be leaving in the morning to get their Danish cord seats at Sandy Sherman Chair Caning in Brookline, Vermont ... Its our first effort with the Danish cord and Im looking forward to seeing how it works how ...We started the day with a couple hours of drilling and tapping ...and a test assembly before we finish sanding and varnishing on the bottom tomorrow... all for now ...Tuesday, February 4, 2014
The Crappywood Challenge
Im on a mission.
Rid the house of particleboard
My wife has a lot of books.
These books need homes.
Sagging particleboard shelves are unacceptable.
Off to the wood dealer I go.
This time I wanted to check out Peachtree Lumber up in Kennesaw. They had an enormous inventory of hardwoods including a "bargain bin." The bargain bin was actually a large area with lower grade hardwood to be had for a lower price. I walked out with I bunch of walnut for $2.54/bd ft. and "paint-grade" maple for $1.50/bd ft.
Have a look:
The walnut is beautiful, wild-grained wood; but thats part of why its so cheap. That crazy-grained, flat-sawn wood fights you every step of the way when you are working it...particularly if you are a hand-tool guy. Power tools can usually blow through irregularities but hand tools have issues at times...well get to that.
The white maple was to be the shelves and the walnut was to be the casework. I decided to knock the shelves out first and build the case around them. This runs counter to a strategy that Im trying to employ of building from the outside in. In this case I was material-limited so I had to plan very carefully around the limiting dimensions. I knew I had to have 5 shelves for this piece, so a defining dimension of the bookcase was however much I could get from the wood I had. Obviously the planks I bought were a little narrow for shelves, so that meant a long-grain butt joint...you know where this was going: tongue and groove.
Done...
...and done.
Note the tiger figuring on some of this wood:
Very nice, but a pain to work with. Essentially the grain does a little shimmy on each stripe and that makes getting a smooth surface difficult with handplanes.
But that was nothing compared to the walnut:
At least in the above specimen, the grain direction is decisive: first its one way, then its the other. On other pieces it was back and forth and back and forth. No fun: tear-out all over the place. But I got it smooth eventually by edge planing short sections in one direction and then hitting it from the other side.
So the stock prep got done...time for construction. Its a very simple design: the case will be dovetailed together, shelves fit into dados, and a nice face frame attached via loose tenon joinery. Simple stuff.
DTs:
The size of these pieces did present some problems to which I was unaccustomed. For example, pin layout had to be done sideways and without a vise...
...and pin cutting had to be done with me on top of the workbench:
But alls well that ends well.
Now time to fit the shelves. Here you can see the length of the shelf relative to the casework:
...not quite halfway overlapped: all good.
Heres how to rout dados for shelves: clamp the two side pieces together, clamp a straightedge normal to them, rout your dados:
Im going to use this little space here to proclaim how much I love Bosch tools. Theyre such a pleasure to use. No funky styling either...just function...so nice.
My largest router bit is 3/4", the shelves are a little more.
Dangit
Not a big deal though. I couldve power-planed all the shelves down to .748" but that wouldve been really loud; and since good music was on the radio at the time I took another course:
Oh, skew block plane, I do adore thee.
Fast forward to four shelves later: time to start thinking about the face frame. More long-grain butt joints. I decided to employ the old floating tongue technique that has gotten me into so much trouble in the past. What can I say? Its bound to work some day. Grooves plowed:
Uh-oh, thats no good:
Looks like a groove is exiting and will be visible. Thats not really good form. Actually I anticipated this and considered busting out a mitered dovetail joint, but thats a joint that I need to practice a bit more before executing on a live piece. So Ill deal with it. Its not that big a deal:
...and done:
At this point the case was just three pieces of wood joined together with two joints: two sides and a top. I needed a brace on the bottom. My idea was to just attach a brace with exposed through dovetails flush with a bottom shelf. Here is one of the receiving tail sockets in the face frame:
Anyone see a potential problem? Yeah, because these sockets are oriented along the grain instead of in end grain, they are super delicate. Once everything is assembled it will be strong, but getting it there could be disastrous. And it was.
I tried a nice slow, steady assemblage with clamps slowly sliding the tails into place:
And it snapped that middle tail right off. Darn. So I screwed-and-glued it back in place.
All good:
Then I did the other side, this time with a preemptive screw in the middle tail.
Thats no good.
Thats even worse.
I used my dovetail layout guide to define the shape of the bookcase feet. This angle jives nicely with the nearby patched up dovetails. Notice how the right side of the guide is aligned with the edge of the wood: this is a trick I use all the time in layout. Doing this facilitates easily repeatable spacing around the rest of the piece.
Heres the exact same spacing repeated on the brace:
A little satin wax to bring out the depth of the grain...
Now were getting somewhere!
I should do a commercial for Minwax:
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